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Coat Cravings: Fari Coat Is Finished!

I've been a naughty Coat Cravings host. Jumping out of the gate all raring to go....then totally stalling out for 2 months. Don't worry, I did pick my Fari Coat back up again...I even finished it! Here, let me share the highlights of my Coat making with you:



Welt Pockets

I do believe when I last left you, I was just about to start my welt pockets.


I added a nice healthy square of interfacing to the back side to support the stitches and opening.



Then, I very carefully hand basted the prepped pocket pieces to my opening. 


I was more than a little paranoid about things being very precise, this seemed the best way to ensure nothing shifted while stitching.



It made machine stitching a breeze, as I could see the stitch lines very clearly, and just needed to follow the basting stitches.



No matter how confident I am in my stitching, slicing into the pocket opening is always gut-wrenching...



Will I have ruined my coat?



No, Not at all, they came out perfect!


The Lining

Once I managed to gather the correct supplies for my lining...mainly having to take a special trip to pick up some more fusible hair canvas interfacing... it came together super quick!



I took my time and did the cutting when I was all alone with Netflix one evening. Overlocking the lining parts together took no time at all.


Trims And Holes

The trim was applied to both the lining and the outside of the coat in the same way: Like a v-neck. I stitched on each of the 8 corners first, then went back and eased the banding in along the straight edges. Truthfully, everything fit perfectly, and so after the fuss of the corners, it was just a matter of stitching some straight lines.



To remind myself how crazy-simple Spanish Snap Buttonholes are, I did a quick test. But, I had some real trouble sewing the actual holes on the jacket. The seam allowances are so close to the button hole placement that the fabric wanted to shift every time the needle went up. I ripped the first one out 3 times before I decided to stitch it upside down from the interfacing side. SO much easier to see the thread. 



It's a pretty tight fit for the button, but it will be fine. I made the facing slightly larger so that it will be easier to slip stitch the layers together at the end.



Putting It All Together

Stitching the sleeve of your lining to the wrong sleeve of your coat is not a great way to get started.



 So I ripped them out and started over. 


The sleeves went in on the correct side the second time...but having never bagged a lining before...and with the pattern instructions providing no direction on how to do it, I messed it up the second time as well.


****ING SLEEVES.


It was a rough day. But I got through it and pressed open the seams all around the perimeter of my coat. Wooden point presser and my clapper were invaluable for this part!


The first time I went through grading and clipping seams wasn't good enough. There is an incredible amount of bulk in there, and I needed to go back through a second time and be far more aggressive.


The wine helped me worry less about clipping TOO closely.


It's hard to tell from a camera shot, but the button hole feels really thick. It wasn't until too late that I realized I'd made a big mistake. Instead of using interfacing on the facing side of the button hole, I used a piece of wool. It's a shame because even with hammering and lots of steam it will still be too thick. Thank goodness I selected buttons with a shank. A flat button would never have worked.


Since I couldn't go in and fix the facing, I trimmed it as small as I dared and catch stitched the edges in place to keep it from distorting or flipping out. I'm sure that over time, it will be less of a bother to me.



Final Details


It is necessary to "stitch in the ditch" around the entire perimeter of the coat to seal the outside and inside trims together. Otherwise, it won't lay flat together and looks very unattractive. I didn't trust that my seams would match up on both sides, so I chose to hand tack. I know, I know, but it gave me so much control and is invisible. It also took FOREVER. It was worth it though, truly.


The last thing I needed to do was stitch on the buttons. I chose black enameled shank buttons with 24K gold edging. I used 3/4 inch buttons for the sleeve tabs and a 7/8 inch button for the collar.


They have a really nice weight to them without being heavy. I also think they look sleek and classic without being boring.


Finished Coat!

The day I went out and took these shots, the snow was deep. The light was gloomy and overcast, the temperature was -13F and my ears hurt before I could get very many shots. Here's Is my finished Fari Coat! I'm incredibly proud of this finish and have been wearing it around town at every opportunity.






Coat Cravings Challenge ended on December 15, 2016. You can check out our winner's coats HERE. (That's right, she made two!)


Our next Sew Seasonal Wardrobe contest will begin on January 1st. Watch this space, and our Group's Facebook Page, Sew Alongs & Sewing Contests, for the details. I hope you'll join us and Sew Along!



Have you missed one of the Coat Cravings posts? Find all the links HERE.



Comments

  1. great looking bum covering coat Crystal....love that lining...and by chance did that ole glass of red have anything to do with forgettin what you lined that button hole with......lol...would love to make one but have to choose something like polartec as allergic to wool...love all your makes.....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, RosieGma! I don't usually wear longer coats, but I like this one. Have you seen the Luxe Fleece at JoAnn's? I made a jacket with it earlier this fall and it's sooo warm and thick!

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  2. I love your coat! It can be worn with many things....very versatile. I love to sew coats but I don't know the best interfacings to use. What kind of interfacing did you use? I love the lining. I have used a print or bright colored lining for my coat projects...makes the inside as beautiful as the outide. You look fantastic in your new coat.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much! I love the surprise lining too. As for interfacing, I used a weft interfacing for the sleeves and sleeve tabs for a softer drape with support and I used a fusible hair canvas for the collar, cuffs, facings and edge bands. It's much stiffer and helps these parts hold their shape and be crisp.

      Delete
    2. Thanks for the info! I am a Michigan girl too. I live in Texas now....Merry Christmas!

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  3. Amazing! Great job! So proud of your hard work! Do you regret that it does not close in front? I just bought the pattern and I am trying to understand whether it would make sense to make it in wool given that since the fronts do not close, I cannot wear it during the cold season... Yet, if I made it in gabardine, it might not hold the shape... Dilemmas, dilemmas...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, it was a pretty mild winter this year and when I wore it, I found myself not even closing the collar button. It wasn't a problem for me wearing it out to dinner or errands. I would definitely choose something with front closures if I needed to be outside for an extended period. With a lighter fabric, I would baste the body and sleeves together first to see if I liked the way it drapes. If not, I would block fuse the whole thing with interfacing to give it more body. I think a lighter weight fabric would be much easier to sew for some of the details like the cuff tabs and welt pockets.

      Thank you so much for stopping by and checking out my coat! I hope you'll touch base with yours so I can see it!

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