Itch To Stitch Orono Top: Stylish Layer For Cold And Transitional Seasons

Never again will I feel the need to wear one of those ill-fitting, marshmallow silhouette-making, store bought sweatshirts....

If we are not having a snow storm, then it is 40 and slushy outside. Either way, layers are my friend these days, and my new Orono Top, the latest pattern release from Itch to Stitch, is a great addition to my warmer layer selection. When it's super cold, I wear it around the house at as a sweatshirt. When it's 40 and slushy, I can throw it on, instead of a jacket, to run my errands. 

Pattern Details & Design Features

Orono Top will keep you warm without sacrificing style or feminine shape. The pattern is intended for medium to heavy knits with good structure and a minimum amount of stretch. Sweatshirt fabrics, double knit and ponte are solid choices. 

Orono Top has several lengthen/shorten lines so you can achieve the correct proportion for your body. On the bodice, there is one at hip level and one at rib-cage level. There is a third L&S line on the Stand Up Collar. You can make it as tall or short as you want!

The Raglan Sleeves have Shoulder Darts. This gives you a much better fit over the shoulder for stable fabrics, and it also makes it easy to make bicep adjustments, if that's something you need. (Make a muslin first, of course).

The Petal Hem Wrap Front is feminine and warm without creating extra volume. The High-Low Hem effect of the petals is also flattering. Using the L&S lines, you have the flexibility to make a top that hits at the mid hip to wear with jeans, or something a little longer to wear with leggings.

Perhaps my favorite feature of the Orono Top is the ingenious way the Side Seam Pockets are constructed. They are integrated into the seam allowance on each hip. They lay super flat but are still large and functional. You wouldn't even know they were there if not for the Pretty Top Stitching!

Muslin Work

I expected when I signed on for this pattern test that fitting a low-stretch, knit garment without darts would be a challenge for me. I started out this test, as I do all pattern tests, by choosing a size based on the Body Measurements Chart. I made a size 12 with no alterations other than shortening the sleeve 1.5 inches. 

My first muslin uses a velour backed knit. Very stable, very thick.

 Very too big! 

 There are a few things going on here....

-The armholes are too low for my shorter shoulder joint

-The collar is too high for my, apparently, short neck

-The bust clings

-It is too long in the back

Additionally, I despise this blue fabric. While it fits the recommended fabric guidelines, it does not suit me. It's too thick and bulky, there is no drape over my curves and it REEKS of old polyester. Seriously, I was smelling it for hours after I took off the muslin. 

I sized down to a 10 for the sleeves/shoulders and bust, grading back out to a 12 for the waist and hip. That, plus some shortening at key places, made a huge improvement!

The most obvious change here is that I shortened the collar 3 inches! Such a better height for me. I also made my new favorite adjustment, what I call the Petite Adjustment, which is a shortening of the bodice (and sleeve) of 1/2 inch above the bust. Then, I shortened a little bit at each of the two L&S lines on the pattern. I reduced a 1/2 inch at the rib cage and 1 full inch at the hip.

I have to admit, even with all my improvements, I was still looking at drag lines coming from my bust. Itch to Stitch knit patterns are drafted for a B cup, so this really shouldn't be a surprise for me. I measure into a D/DD cup when I sew Itch to Stitch woven patterns. I did a little Google crawl, and landed on these directions to do a dartless Full Bust Adjustment on a knit pattern. I hemmed and hawed for quite a while before deciding to jump in, make the change and NOT muslin it out first!

The Final Orono Top

 I found this pretty plaid and floral ponte for my Orono Top at Beautiful Textiles. 

This stable fabric has about 30% horizontal stretch, making it a great choice for the Orono Top. However, it does have about 10% vertical stretch as well. To avoid having any armhole drooping, I added stay tape to the sleeve seam lines. This very simple detail makes a world of difference.

Being a double knit, ponte is usually the same on both sides. This fabric, however was not. One side is printed and the other is a solid black. Originally, my plan was to make a full printed version.... and then I started thinking about print matching the raglan seams. I did make the effort, but I don't think I did a very good job of it. So, I decided to have some fun and spent the afternoon pinning different options on my dress form.

In the end, it turned out that I didn't really like the full print version anyway. I felt it would overwhelm me. I decided on black sleeves/collar and a printed bodice. 

Clearly, it's the right choice for me because I LOVE my color blocked Orono Top!

 Check it out: My FBA gamble totally paid off! All the extra fabric under my arms is gone and there are no more drag lines! 

Orono Top from Itch to Stitch is currently on sale for 20% off ---

but only through February 24, 2019. 

Get a copy for yourself, check out all the other great tester makes, then share your version in the Itch to Stitch Facebook Group!