Fall Transitions with Petaluma Dress, New From Itch to Stitch

Here we are, on the precipice of Fall, and I get to share with you a wonderful dress that is perfect for the transition of the seasons: Petaluma Dress, Itch to Stitch's newest release.

I can't help but answer when a testing call comes out from Itch to Stitch, even if it means over booking myself, which is exactly what I did this month. Never fear, even though I had such a slim, self-inflicted window, I was able to create a beautiful new dress to take me into the crisp, fall weather.

Pattern Details

Petaluma Dress is a woven, faux wrap dress. It takes the classic lines and elegant drape of the traditional wrap dress and eliminates the fear of wardrobe malfunctions that are common with wrap styles. 

The under skirt is sewn into both side seams, and the wrapped bodice is secured entirely along the waist seam. An invisible zipper is sewn into the center back seam keeping everything secure. The optional ties are stitched right into the sides of the bodice and can be tied in the front or the back.

ALSO, THERE ARE POCKETS.

Ahem, sorry. 

Sometimes I get exited by dress pockets. 

Design Details

Typical with Itch to Stitch patterns, you'll get both your print-at-home PDF layout and a copy shop version. Did you know that in BOTH formats, you can print only the size(s) you need using the layers feature?

This is a large pattern with many printable pages. Make good use of the "Print Pages" box in the instructions. It will tell you exactly what to print for your size, your cup size and your sleeve option so that you don't have to waste any paper or ink.

This pattern also features:

-Cup sizes for A, B, C, D and DD

-Unlined wrap bodice and petal shaped skirt

-Large side seam pockets secured in the waist seam to prevent drooping

-Optional Sash for front or back tying

-Three sleeve options: Short, double petal, butterfly

Muslin Work

Unaltered 10C

When I measured myself for Petaluma Dress, the difference between my over bust and full bust was 3.5 inches. That is exactly between a C and D cup for this pattern. I decided to work with the 10C, and spent precious time making my fit adjustments only to figure out that the C cup was too shallow for me in this style. The tell-tale sign of that being no matter what I tried, the front cross had a gap. I debated between going to an 8DD or a 10D , but in the end chose a 10D. This worked out ok for me, as the cross gap was totally eliminated, but my bodice does feel a bit loose through the shoulder, and I'm left wondering if I would have liked the 8DD better.

Unaltered 10C

The adjustments I applied to my bodice are all typical of my fitting this year:
-Forward Shoulder adjustment
-Removal of back length at the CB neckline using the Pivot Slide technique
-Shortening the bodice above the dart/below the armhole
-Slight sloped shoulder adjustment

After all my work on the bodice I was far too lazy to properly muslin the skirt. Instead, I made like a paper doll and lucked out that my estimated reduction of 1 inch was perfect!

Construction Notes

I call this my November Dress because I feel like this fabric captures November in Michigan: rust colored mums, cloudy days, frost, bare trees and evergreens. It is a 100% linen abstract print from Fabric Mart, but sadly, is no longer available.

As I do with 99% of my fabrics, I washed and dried this a few times before cutting. I find it helps soften the linen, shrinks it a bit and helps prevent some of the wrinkling linen likes to do. Of course, washing the linen does make it a little more elastic, which can exacerbate the "growing" it likes to do when it gets warm. It's very important to stay stitch (even if it's not instructed) as well as stablize your seams with fusible stay tape or fine twill tape.

 
My waist seam on the skirt grew about an inch as I sewed my project. To fix that, I cut a piece of fine twill tape to the final garment waist measurement of my size, plus seam allowance, for the center back. I pinned it at the CB and CF, then eased the dress waist in as I stitched. An inch insn't that much over the span of a waistline, so it wasn't difficult. I buy my 1/4 twill tape from Wawak. It is cheaper and much much thinner than the chunky stuff they sell at Joann's. It's very sturdy and is great for stabilizing jeans and shoulder seams as well as waistbands without adding bulk.

Aside from a bit of growing, my linen was a very well behaved fabric! I was even able to sew my narrow hem without pressing first. Just a double roll as it went through the machine a couple inches at a time. It was surprisingly fast! Of course, then I realized I'd turned and stitched to the wrong side of the fabric and had to tear it out. Fortunately, the hem went in just as well the second time.

My zipper was also easy to put in. This was my first time putting one in with my Juki HZL F300 machine, which I got this past June.

Center Back with the invisible zipper installed at the waist seam.

I can move my needle anywhere I want, which makes it crazy easy to get my stitches right in close, next to the teeth.

Ready For Fall

Petaluma Dress is a good choice for many seasons, depending on the color, print and styling you choose.

In silks with heels, you can pull off spring; rayon and sandals for summer; linen or even a soft wool suiting with boots for fall!

I purposely chose the short sleeve option, as I wanted to be able to toss on a cardigan or jacket once the temperatures start dropping.

Shown with my wool ponte Lisbon Cardi with ruffle hacked cuffs.

Of course, the double petal sleeve would be just as easy to slip into a jacket. My next version will definitely have that sleeve. It's so beautiful!!  You can check out all the tester versions HERE and see all the sleeve options that come with the Petaluma Dress!

Petaluma Dress is live in the Itch to Stitch shop NOW! Grab your copy and make one for each season. Petaluma Dress is on sale for 20% off through Sunday, September 16th.

Share all your Itch to Stitch makes, and see what others are sewing in the Itch to Stitch Designs Facebook Group!