I'm not going to lie. Sewing can be brutal for your body image.
Sometimes the fitting process puts your No Body Shaming rule through the ringer.
I was feeling out of sorts the week we tested Crystal Cove Cami. But, as always, it's so worth it to stick things through to the end.
Keep reading, learn from my lessons, and your experience sewing Crystal Cove Cami will go much more smoothly!
The curved pieces of the overlapped back are breezy, yet still don't show too much skin when the wind blows. It feels so good in the heat!
There are endless ways you can get creative with a pattern like this from decorative trims at the hem to fancy ribbons at the straps. On my first version, I used an organza ribbon to trim my hem.
This pattern comes drafted for size 00-20 and each size has individual fronts for cup sizes A, B, C, D and DD. There are only a few pattern pieces, but you can always use the layers option to print only the sizes you need.
Headfirst, I dove, and just made a size 8D. The same size as my Giverny Dress. Guess what? This pattern has a different shape (duh) and therefore has different fit considerations.
Aside from not being able to execute two matching darts on this muslin, I'm really just nit-picking the fit. Well, that and the back keeps sliding down, pulling the front up too high. Extending the straps just dropped the back further.
I decided to cut a 10C, which is the size I should have picked in the first place, based on my measurements and the difference between my high & full bust. I also took out about an inch of length all the way around from above the full bust in an attempt to get the right placement of the darts. I know that when the darts are in the right spot, and the size is correct, the garment won't slide backwards anymore.
This is a much better fit, especially at the back. However, the darts are now too high.
I had a good long chat with Kennis about dart placement and played with re-pinning them a bit.
Another quick muslin to check the fit, and to ensure I'd transferred the changes to my pattern correctly: DART SUCCESS!
(I am sucking in my gut so much... My Mountain Views are too small WAHHHH!)
Sorry about that folks, my Positive Body Image Filter had a brief glitch.
2. Make sure your darts are pointing to your apex!
3. Make sure your darts are the right length for the shape of your bust.
Crystal Cove Cami is not a difficult sewing project. There are no complicated techniques, and even making spaghetti straps wasn't difficult. But, if you have never made straps before, you should check out the tutorial HERE.
Unfortunately, my poly charmeuse did NOT want to be stretched on the bias. it kept snapping back to the original shape. I knew if I proceeded to make straps with it, I would end up with them sagging and droopy. Instead, I grabbed some super narrow black ribbon from my stash and made straps from that.
Crazy easy. Crazy fast. Crazy perfect!
My poly charmeuse fabric really likes to fray, so I opted to sew the side seams with a French seam. There's a tutorial HERE if you've never tried one before. My fabric is light and slinky, so bulk wasn't an issue.
I also chose to do a simple narrow hem on this version. The tutorial HERE describes exactly what I did. I serged the edge, then double-folded it and stitched. I did press the crap out of it first, because my fabric needed an halfway decent crease to behave.
However, this is the first time I've successfully sewn a narrow hem with NO pins, and NO hand basting first. It came out perfect!! I absolutely LOVE LOVE LOVE my new fancy computerized sewing machine. I can sew tiny hems on slippery fabric and it doesn't drift off track at all. All Hail Team Juki.
You can get a copy of Crystal Cove Cami starting TODAY for 20% off!
The sale runs through Monday, June 18.
Sometimes the fitting process puts your No Body Shaming rule through the ringer.
I was feeling out of sorts the week we tested Crystal Cove Cami. But, as always, it's so worth it to stick things through to the end.
Keep reading, learn from my lessons, and your experience sewing Crystal Cove Cami will go much more smoothly!
Pattern Details
This latest release from Itch-To-Stitch Designs, Crystal Cove Cami, is the perfect spotlight pattern for all your light silky woven fabrics. The fit is relaxed, draping off the bust, but with side and back shaping to give you some sexy curves.
There are endless ways you can get creative with a pattern like this from decorative trims at the hem to fancy ribbons at the straps. On my first version, I used an organza ribbon to trim my hem.
Check out other tester's versions HERE to see some creative interpretations of Crystal Cove Cami.
This pattern comes drafted for size 00-20 and each size has individual fronts for cup sizes A, B, C, D and DD. There are only a few pattern pieces, but you can always use the layers option to print only the sizes you need.
Fit=All About The Darts
As usual, if I had followed the pattern instructions to choose my size, I would have saved myself some trouble. What else is new, right?Headfirst, I dove, and just made a size 8D. The same size as my Giverny Dress. Guess what? This pattern has a different shape (duh) and therefore has different fit considerations.
I decided to cut a 10C, which is the size I should have picked in the first place, based on my measurements and the difference between my high & full bust. I also took out about an inch of length all the way around from above the full bust in an attempt to get the right placement of the darts. I know that when the darts are in the right spot, and the size is correct, the garment won't slide backwards anymore.
I had a good long chat with Kennis about dart placement and played with re-pinning them a bit.
Sorry about that folks, my Positive Body Image Filter had a brief glitch.
Keys To Successful Dart Fitting
1. Make sure your darts are at the right level.2. Make sure your darts are pointing to your apex!
3. Make sure your darts are the right length for the shape of your bust.
Construction Highlights
Unfortunately, my poly charmeuse did NOT want to be stretched on the bias. it kept snapping back to the original shape. I knew if I proceeded to make straps with it, I would end up with them sagging and droopy. Instead, I grabbed some super narrow black ribbon from my stash and made straps from that.
My poly charmeuse fabric really likes to fray, so I opted to sew the side seams with a French seam. There's a tutorial HERE if you've never tried one before. My fabric is light and slinky, so bulk wasn't an issue.
I also chose to do a simple narrow hem on this version. The tutorial HERE describes exactly what I did. I serged the edge, then double-folded it and stitched. I did press the crap out of it first, because my fabric needed an halfway decent crease to behave.
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| Isn't my new machine gorgeous? She's a Juki HZL F300 and I love her. |
Final Shots
So, my Mountain Views might not fit just now, but my North Point Trousers do, and there's no arguing with these pictures:
When your clothes fit, you look great. When you know you look great, you feel good.
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| This is the Lindy Petal Skirt from my last post. Talk about dressing up a basic! |
The sale runs through Monday, June 18.
You make the cami look sophisticated!
ReplyDeleteLOL, that's because it IS a sophisticated pattern!
DeleteCongratulations on your new Juki - so exciting to get a new machine you love isn't it?! It's the best feeling and one only your sewing buddies really get...when we tell our non-sewing friends, they say, "oh yeah that's nice" but you know they don't really get it. We get it :) Also I just wanted to say I too love Itch to Stitch patterns a LOT and this one looks like a star make. Every one I've seen so far is lovely. Thank you for this honest and really extensive review/tutorial of the darts on this pattern and how to get them right which is a crucial piece of making this cami look so great.
ReplyDeleteNice Post
ReplyDeleteLove this post! The “little sexy” project is both stylish and inspiring. Your creativity and clear instructions make it easy to envision and create something special. Thanks for sharing such a fun and chic idea!
ReplyDeleteCasual Dresses for Women