Finally, I can share my Hvar Jacket with you!
I can't even tell you how hard it's been to sit on this pattern and not give a single hint about it. Hvar, which is pronounced like saying "Far", if Google is to be believed, has been my favorite fall jacket!
No more wasting time, I'm going to give you all the info now:
No more wasting time, I'm going to give you all the info now:
The Pattern
Hvar Jacket from Itch-To-Stitch Designs is an easy, quick jacket that makes a great impact. I've made 3 jackets, each unique with fabric, look and wear. There are only 4 pattern pieces and no closures, which makes this really beginner friendly.
Design Features
-Unlined, with optional Hong Kong finish (including in instructions)
-Waterfall Collar
-Long sleeves
-Pointed front hem
Hvar Jacket is for woven fabrics, and is available for instant download in sizes 00-20. With your purchase, you get a tiled PDF for home assembly, and a large format for the copy shop. Plus, the PDF is layered, so you can select only the size(s) that you need when you print.
Muslin Work
I really enjoy sharing my fitting and muslin stages with you, but I have to confess that as I sift back through my zillion photos, my process was super chaotic and hard to follow.
This jacket is not as hard to fit as I made it. Classic Over Thinking on my part. I messed around with size 8 (in the jeans) and size 10 (in the black pants). I decided to work with the 10 for my first version and it's a bit roomy in back with more of a boxy feel.
While my first version is a lovely jacket, it wasn't quite what I envisioned as far as back shaping. So I returned to the size 8 muslin to address the two issues that were creating tightness in my back.
The blue circle indicates my primary issue with moving my arm. The shoulder slope needed to be lowered. Once I did that, my range of motion was much improved, and those wrinkles were lessened. In fact, it seemed that those wrinkles were apparent on several of the test versions, so Kennis addressed the issue for the final pattern by changing the shoulder slope.Good news for you is that you don't have to worry about a shoulder slope adjustment! It's been done already.
The red circles in the two pictures above indicated to me that my Awesome Ass was getting in the way again. The way it curves out was causing the bottom hem of my jacket to get caught and created some unsightly puffiness. I did need more space in the rear, but I did not need a bigger size in the hip. I ended up messing around with the back darts to make some extra space. I opened them up into fish eye darts that end right where the hem folds. This maintains the look of the original back dart, but gives me an inch or two of flare right where I need it.
After that, I just needed to apply my regular 1/2 forward shoulder adjustment and I was on my way to making Versions 2 and 3.
Beautiful Details
Itch-To-Stitch includes beautiful finishing details. Hvar Jacket is unlined, but by following the instructions for Hong Kong seam binding, your insides will look just as pretty as the outside.
I barely had enough of this kimono silk left to eek out enough trim for my version 2. Some of the seams needed to be pieced together, but the result is still lovely.
That wasn't too hard to do.... but then I realized I'd trimmed the side seams at the armhole wrong and ended up with ugly bare spots!
I hand stitched in some patches and crisis averted!
Final Photos
Let's get to the real reason you are here, shall we? What do my Hvar Jackets look like?
Version 1
Version 1 is a size 10 from the very first test file. I used a white and silver raw silk suiting, and lined it with a silk twill polka dot. It is a STUNNING jacket, even in it's larger, boxier shape, that I am having the hardest time pairing into an outfit.
First I tried paring it with my Brasov Wrap Top (blogged HERE) and North Point Trousers (blogged HERE). The trousers look nice, but there's too much going on with the top.
There were several other outfits put on and removed before they got to the photo stage. Eventually, I landed on my linen Beausoleil (blogged HERE) and I think its great! The dress does wrinkle just by thinking about wearing it, but it's linen so I'm over it.
Version 2
My next Hvar Jacket was made using the modified size 8 (Shoulder slope and dart changes). I chose a fabric that I've been sitting on for about a year: An absolutely gorgeous Merino wool knit. It only has about 10% stretch, but because this pattern is drafted for wovens, that did cause some drooping issues with the shoulder and sleeve. I have it thrown over one of my many Lago Tanks (blogged HERE).
Version 3
While waiting for the release of this pattern, I made a third Hvar Jacket! This time I used some faux suede-back sherpa for a warmer version. It came out even better than I'd hoped! Underneath is an unblogged make: the Itch-To-Stitch Paulina Top.Final Thoughts?
Hvar Jacket is incredibly versatile and fun. If you need more inspiration, you can check out tons more tester versions in the launch post HERE.You can always catch the newest pattern from Itch-To-Stitch at a 20% discount for the first week and Hvar Jacket is no different. Grab your copy NOW through 10/31/17 for just $8.00!
P.S. Itch-To-Stitch Was Robbed!
Hvar Jacket was tested and prepared back in September, but the release was held until this week, when Kennis returned from her European trip where she visited (among other places) Brasov and Hvar. Sadly, instead of diving into new designs inspired by the Old World, she returned to discover her home had been robbed. They took all the vital parts of her independent business. Design computer with all the software? Gone. Cameras for photographs? Gone. Sewing machine to make samples... GONE.You guys, they rummaged everything and even took used pots and pans.
To raise funds and replace the necessary equipment for Kennis to get back to work, Itch-To-Stitch is having a sale like no other they've had before. Every pattern is on sale now through October 31st for 20% off. On top of that, 6 special patterns listed here are on deep discount for only $5 each:
Tierras Woven Joggers--Vientaine Skirt--Irena Knit Top--Carey Top--Seville Skirt--Paulina Top
If Hvar isn't your thing, come by the shop and grab your wish list patterns instead.
Make sure you browse the Itch-To-Stitch Facebook Group to see these patterns sewn up!
*All affiliate links are disabled in this post. 100% of profits from your purchase remain with Kennis and Itch-To-Stitch Designs.
I love what you did with the Sherpa!
ReplyDeleteThank you! It's so soft and warm to wear.
DeleteSo many options for this one! I love the purple and the Sherpa ��
ReplyDeleteYou are truly only limited by your creativity. This jacket is so easy and makes a statement. I think the purple is my fav, though.
DeleteInteresting.
ReplyDelete