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Must Have For Fall: North Point Trousers From Itch-To-Stitch


Just imagine... Trousers that don't slide off your ass when you bend over.... Trousers that fit in the waist and the hip AT THE SAME TIME....Trousers that don't shrink when you wash them...Trousers that are the right length for your legs... 
Labor Day Weekend is the "official" launch of fall in the northern US. To kick off this, my most favorite, season I have made North Point Trousers, new from Itch-To-Stitch! 

Pattern Details

North Point Trousers is a classic mid-rise trouser with a straight leg. They are meant for a stretch woven; something with 1-2% Lycra. I used a soft denim with about 15% stretch. Other testers used cotton sateen, stretch suiting or other twill fabrics with Lycra. 



This pattern is available in size 00-20 and just like all Itch-To-Stitch patterns, you can use the PDF layers option to print only the size(s) you need. 

Additional Design Features

- Contour waistband follows your body's curves
- Front slanted pockets stitched into the fly so they stay in place
- Back single-welt pockets with a strong RTW finish
- Fly front with zipper and double hook and bar closure

A good trouser pattern is a blank slate for your creativity. You can achieve a bunch of different looks just by choosing different fabrics. Add to that your ability to adjust the hem, tweak your fit for wider or more narrow legs or use top stitching for a decorative touch, and you can make a whole wardrobe of bottoms with one pattern. Check out all the tester versions HERE and see how a group of ladies interprets the same trouser pattern. 

 My Custom Fit

There's a reason we aren't satisfied with RTW trousers. We are all too uniquely shaped to fit a mass produced product. Custom trousers are not easy, but let me tell you, they are so SO worth it. Like anyone, I have a laundry list of fit challenges and I'm learning to identify them with practice. My trousers aren't perfect, but each pair I make gets better! 

Figure Variations I'm working to fit:

-Forward Tilted Pelvis (AKA BAD POSTURE)
My pelvis tilts down because I don't stand up straight. It pushes down the front rise of my trousers creating horizontal folds and creases. I shortened the front rise about 1/2 inch, the amount my forward tilt pushes everything down.
- Round Pubis (I really wish there was a better name for this...)
Some pubic bones are flat, some are round. When you are round like me, you will have some odd vertical bagginess that doesn't go away when you make the trouser smaller at the hip. I scooped the front crotch curve about 1/8 inch into more of a J shape to reduce that extra fabric hanging around my.... well, pubis.

Back crotch curve adjustment

-Low Seat (I like to say I have an Awesome Ass and it needs its personal space).
To make room for the extra padding on my sitz bones, I scooped out the back crotch curve into more of a J shape. That makes the back rise longer where it's needed, without adding height at the lower back or in the crotch curve. It reduces the extra fabric at the back of my thigh, under my buttocks.
- Larger Inner Thighs
Thigh Gaps are a myth. I added an extra 1/4 inch to the inner thigh of the back leg only, not changing the crotch curve, to reduce the pull lines.
-Knock Knees
My out seam needed to be about 1/2 inch shorter between the hip and knee. That tilts the way the leg line lays so that it doesn't catch on my inward facing knee. You see all those lines pointing to my inner knee? Yeah, I need a little more work there.
-Short legs
Can't fight genetics. I reduced the length by 3 3/8 inches.

All of the adjustments I made were really subtle and often hard to see the difference in photos. What was important was how each change that was correct made the trousers feel better. I still have some room for improvement, maybe a 1/4 inch more space from the back crotch extension down to just past my knee. 
NOTE: The weight and stretch content of your fabric effects fit! Make sure you are using a comparable fabric for your muslin. 

Sewing Details

There are some fun details on the North Point Trousers, so I thought I'd share some construction shots:

At the suggestion of Kennis, I used Bemberg rayon lining for my pockets to help reduce the lines showing through my drapey denim. I just about ripped out my hair trying to work with the shifty stuff until Kennis came to the rescue with the brilliant idea of starch. I sprayed and pressed my remaining pieces and they didn't give me a single bit of trouble the rest of the project. 
NOTE: Bemberg is a great pocket fabric if you starch the crap out of it first.
The pattern instructions contain an excellent zipper walk-through. I had perfect results the first time. 
NOTE: if you use a metal zipper, rather than the plastic type listed in the instructions, you must stitch over the teeth very slowly, manually turning your hand wheel, or you'll bust a needle and be very annoyed.
Welt pockets really have a bad reputation for being hard and scary. I think that is undeserved. Sure, it's nerve wracking to slice a hole into your fabric, but if you take your time and work carefully, there's nothing to fear. 
The pockets on the North Point Trousers are crafted in such a way that they don't pull and distort when you put something in them.   
If you like extra hand-holding on a detail like welt pockets, (I know I do) you are in luck. Kennis has created a blog post HERE that walks you through every tiny bit. I used it for my trousers and you can see how that worked out.
The inside of the North Point Trousers is just as cleanly finished as a RTW pair. There are instructions to use twill or selvage tape to secure the waist line of your trousers, as well as instructions wrap the bottom of your waistband facing for a low-bulk super-pretty finish. 
Are you ready to see what happens when you walk through each step to the finish?

Final Pictures











Are North Point Trousers For You?

The great drafting and tailored details are accompanied by clear and easy to follow instructions. You won't find a better guide to helping you achieve Trouser Greatness.  Seriously, you are worth taking the time to fit a proper pair of trousers that make you look and feel good. 

You can grab your very own copy of North Point Trousers TODAY! 
The pattern is on sale for $9.60 (20% off), but only until September 12, 2017

Buy More Save More:

Spend $20+ and save 15%
Spend 30+ and save 20%

While you are at it drop another pattern or two in to your cart and take advantage of the Buy More Save More discount. I know it will be a hard choice, because the North Point Trousers coordinates with just about everything in the ITS Pattern Catalog



I'm not listening to your excuses. Sew some trousers!
Be sure to join the sewing fun in the Itch-To-Stitch Facebook Group

Comments

  1. I little trick with metal zippers. You can take needle nose pliers and pull the zipper teeth out where you will be stitching. Just make sure your zipper is unzipped when you do this and don't zip it up until the waistband is sewn on.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, that's true, you can! I've done that before and always forget and zip the pull right off. It's a real pain trying to get it back on! I did go in and pull off the teeth above the stitch line after it was secure.

      Delete
  2. Good gosh your trousers are amazing Crystal!!! I am sweating looking at all the fit adjustments you made, I don't know if I can even recognize those adjustments for me. You did such a great job, also I loooove that you always add muslin shots in your blog posts.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Indu! There's no way I'd have learned what I know about fitting trousers without the input of the online sewing community. There are so many knowledgeable ladies willing to help. When you are ready, they will help you too!

      Thank you for saying that about the muslin shots. Sometimes I hesitate because, you know, muslins are never flattering, but I know I like to see where a garment starts and read how the final product is achieved.

      Delete

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