Finding perfect jeans is like finding a unicorn....
Do YOU have unicorn in your back yard?
Yeah. Me either.What I DO have is the newest Itch-To-Stitch Designs pattern release: Mountain View Pull On Jeans, and they are my new BFFF! They MIGHT even be unicorn jeans...
Breaking Ground is mostly about trying new-to-you designers, but you can also twist it to be a new-to-you technique, style or other such personal challenge. Obviously, Itch-to-Stitch is NOT new to me, but the concept of pull on pants as everyday wear is, and it's a trend I've tried to avoid for a long time! Pull on pants are for yoga and sleeping, right? My personal rule is no lounge pants outside the house, unless I'm ACTUALLY going somewhere to exercise. (SNORT)
Wearing pull on pants or leggings as real pants (that look terrific) is how I'm Breaking Ground for myself!
Pattern Details
Mountain View Pull On Jeans gives you just about everything you find in a traditional jeans pattern but without the bother of a zip fly or the time consuming finish of a button/snap waistband. This makes them a great project for a beginner+ level seamstress who wants a little bit of a fit challenge AND a pretty quick make for those who are more experienced. I finished my jeans in about 9 hours. 2 of those hours went toward detailed pocket stitching, which you totally don't have to do.
Design Features
- Uses a sturdy fabric with 20-30% stretch. (Less than 20% and they won't come over your hips)
-Higher mid-rise with a wide tummy band for NO MUFFIN TOPS
-Negative ease through the hip to keep everything in place
-Functional front pockets (that fit your whole hand... No fake stuff here)
-Center back leg seam for easier personalized fitting
-Straight leg, but simple to slim for a skinny look
-Yokes, back pockets and faux fly stitching for a true jeans appearance
And of course, standard Itch-to-Stitch sizes 00-20 are included in a layered PDF file plus a copy shop printable file as well.
What It Takes To Be My BFFF Jeans
You guys have watched me make lots of jeans and trousers over the last 12 months or so in my search for the perfect pants, and while each pattern has something unique to recommend it, none of them have quite had what it takes to be The One. Let's see how Mountain View Pull On Jeans stack up:
Best Fit
For a pattern test, I normally start with a muslin of the pattern straight off the printer. My job in a pattern test is to show the designer how her drafted pattern sits on my body. That is more important than achieving a perfect personal fit. If each person in the test group busts right out of the gate with a bunch of individual adjustments, the designer cannot assess if there is a universal drafting change that should be made to the final pattern.
 |
| "X" knocked kneed adjustment applied to the back leg of my Mountain View pattern. |
I've had some really exciting breakthroughs with sorting out my personal trouser fit issues recently and I could not wait to apply them to this new pattern. One in particular addresses the outward angle of my lower leg. As my Mountain View Pull On Jeans were for a pattern test, I made sure to get permission to apply my X adjustment at the knee before cutting my muslin.
I was so giddy with happiness looking at this muslin, I couldn't even stand myself. This is straight of the printer with ONLY the adjustment for my knock knees. These fit me so well, and felt so good, that I was actually able to finish my muslin as my final version!
You guys, I can NEVER do that with pants!!
The other fit tweaks I made were minimal:
- Lower back crotch curve 1/2 inch
-Reduce the leg at the ankle by 1 inch, V1
-Slim the legs on V2 for a different look
-Shorten the length 1.5 inches at the hem
-Take a slightly deeper hem of 1.5 inches
Best Function
| Do you chase small children and/or puppies? Do you get in & out of the car all day running errands? Do you sit at a desk? Perhaps you are the one crawling under it to make sure you didn't accidentally disconnect the Ethernet cord with your foot before you call the IT help desk... Whatever it is you do all day, Mountain View Pull On Jeans are Cover Your Ass Certified. Yup. I'm giving them the CYA stamp.  |
| Mountain View PO Jeans worn with Lago Tank and Lisbon Cardigan |
I've been plagued by poorly fitting jeans for so long that I don't even remember when it started. All I know is that my jeans and trousers Do.Not.Stay.Up. Any time I take 3 steps, bend over or stand up, I have to hike them back into place. Makes me CAH-RAY-ZEE. I've tried it all: low rise (gag), mid-rise, high-rise.... RTW and me made, smaller waist band, larger, straight, contour and twill tape in the waist seam and every single one slides down.
Ohhh, but my Magic Mountain View Jeans have this:
High rise contoured negative ease yoga-band waist from a sturdy and firm fabric. I know it's a mouthful, but I love you! This thing holds my jeans in place, keeps my stomach in check and is so comfortable! I keep reaching to pull my pants back up out of habit... they are already in place! (I also keep checking to make sure my zipper is up, but there isn't one so.... I have some weird habits, I guess.)
 |
| Mountain View Pull On Jeans worn with Hepburn Turtleneck |
The waist seam of these wonderful magic jeans is stabilized by 1/2 elastic. I need to tell you right now, you will be really tempted to serge that seam before you put in your elastic. DON'T. just don't. I did on my first pair and installing my elastic onto that tiny seam allowance was far too fussy. It doesn't have to be that way.
On my second pair, I just zig-zagged the seam at the 1/2 seam allowance. My 1/2 elastic laid right on top and got zig zagged in too. The difference in bulk is negligible. They slide on and off just fine.
Best Fashion
Tell me the truth: If I didn't tell you these were faux fly pull on jeans, would you be able to tell?
I have this serious hang up about pull on pants. I equate elastic waist pants with old ladies. Then I go shopping and see people at the grocery store in their ratty flannel pj bottoms and slippers! Or, I find middle-aged women in hot pink sweat pants with "juicy" and "love" plastered across their ass. Is giving in to pull on pants too easy? Am I giving up when I give in to pull on pants?
I've struggled with this fashion dilemma for some time now.
No. This does not look like giving up!
I am SO thankful for Kennis. She always knows exactly what I want and then presents the pattern at exactly the right time. I can have the best of both worlds! Comfortable, easy to wear jeans that are full of personality and look good.
Speaking of personality, let's take a closer look at those back pockets.
Jeans pockets are a blank slate for personality which can make it hard to decide what to put on them. But then I struck upon a theme and I'm over flowing with pocket ideas!
Working on my 2 versions of Mountain View Pull On Jeans allowed me to really fine tune the process. I am now ready to make an army of jeans with different and interesting pockets.
As it turns out, it's not terribly difficult. Choose a design without too many crazy turns or details and print it out. Or draw it yourself if you have the talent. "Line Art" and "Outline" are good words to use in your Google search. In the case of both my Mountain View pockets, my designs printed at 4x6 were just right to fit on the back pockets with plenty of room to turn under the edges and top stitch.
It's worth the time to trace out onto a thinner paper, but if you don't have any, you can use the printer paper. You might have some loose stitches in the end though as it messes with the top stitch thread tension. Plus, it's a mega pain to tear off later.
When you're done stitching, tie off the loose threads (the worst part, seriously) and then tear away the paper. BAM. Pretty pockets!
I've struggled with this fashion dilemma for some time now.
 |
| Mountain View Pull On Jeans worn with Macy Top and Hvar Jacket |
I am SO thankful for Kennis. She always knows exactly what I want and then presents the pattern at exactly the right time. I can have the best of both worlds! Comfortable, easy to wear jeans that are full of personality and look good.
Speaking of personality, let's take a closer look at those back pockets.
 |
| X-Men Pockets! |
 |
| Green Lantern pockets! |
As it turns out, it's not terribly difficult. Choose a design without too many crazy turns or details and print it out. Or draw it yourself if you have the talent. "Line Art" and "Outline" are good words to use in your Google search. In the case of both my Mountain View pockets, my designs printed at 4x6 were just right to fit on the back pockets with plenty of room to turn under the edges and top stitch.
I really recommend tracing out a pocket on tissue paper (I use medical exam paper to trace patterns) and then trace the design just where you want it. The whole thing then fits quite nicely onto the fabric piece for stitching. I like to fuse some tricot interfacing to the back side of my pocket to give the stitching some support.
Final Thoughts
It's really ironic that the pull on style of jeans I've avoided for so long turn out to be the trouser pattern I love the most. But I do love them! Mountain View Pull On Jeans are, without a doubt, my B.F.F.F. Jeans!
If you want to grab a copy, it's on sale HERE for 20% off until Sunday, March 18th.
If you want to grab a copy, it's on sale HERE for 20% off until Sunday, March 18th.
Breaking Ground Blog Tour....
Check out all the fantastic projects shared this week by more than 20 Breaking Ground Bloggers. I'll bet you discover something new and inspirational for you!
Be sure to visit us each day:
Monday March 12
Tuesday March 13
Wednesday March 14
Sewing Vortex (You are here), Kathy's Kwilts and More
Thursday March 15
Friday March 16
Lulu & Celeste, Tenille's Thread, Sewing A La Carte, The Bear and Pea Atelier, Aurora Design Fabrics, Sprouting Jube Jube, Kathy's Kwilts and More
To make the tour even more fun, our Breaking Ground blog team member, Gail is offering 2 patterns of choice from her pattern shop Flosstyle to one lucky winner.
Enter Here!
***
We'd love to see how you're Breaking Ground this month. Share with us what you're working on by using the hashtag #BreakingGround2018 across social media.
Better yet, join the Sew Alongs & Sewing Contests Facebook Group to sew along with the Breaking Ground theme for the entire month of March. In the group you'll find support and encouragement for your projects and fun themed challenges.
I feel the same about pull on pants in general but these are awesome!
ReplyDeleteThank you! I haven't worn anything else all week!
DeleteWhy did I not think of just stitching out my pocket design ON TOP of the printed design? I'm going to be needing some new jeans with fancy pockets!
ReplyDeleteI didn't know what to do either, Rosemary from the SAL group shared her secret with me.
DeleteGreat pants. Which fabric did you use? It is difficult to find stretch denim with that much stretch in it.
ReplyDeleteBoth pair of jeans are made with denim from my local chain shop, Fields Fabrics. The blue ones with the gold stitching are 25% stretch and only cost $4/yard!
DeleteIt is so fun to read your blog posts! I love your humor and your jeans!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Diane! I find writing hard, but I love to share.
DeleteI think this pattern may have to be my next studio purchase. RTW jeans and I haven't gotten along in years. While recently staring at approximately 40 pairs of ill fitting jeans in my closet, I decided it was time to get over my fear of making "real" pants.
ReplyDeleteIt's really worth the time and effort to figure out your personal trouser fit. And they don't have to be perfect to be better than RTW!
DeleteAmazing fit and i love pockets!
ReplyDeleteThank you Emily! I finally can make jeans that fit well!
DeleteThese are amazing! Thank you for sharing your experience. I also have knock knees, but I haven't found a knock knee adjustment that works well for me yet. Can you please tell me which one you use?
ReplyDeleteI actually use one I sort of made up because none of the adjustments I could find in books or on line helped. I've decided I need more length at the knee of my inseam, and less at the knee of my outseam. So, I make an X shaped adjustment there and redraw the grainline of my legs from the hem up. I'm not sure if it's clear without photos. If you are in the Sew Alongs & Sewing Contest group, bump me and I can share photos and more discussion if you are interested. If you aren't a member, you can go there and request to join. There's a link to the group right near the end of my post.
DeleteThanks so much for your reply! You should totally name the adjustment after yourself! I've joined the group and will look around for your posts on the subject.
DeleteWell I loved your pants and review so much I just had to buy the pattern :) I love pull on jeans - ever since I discovered these in RTW I've never worn anything else. Frankly no one has ever noticed I'm pretty sure. I don't tuck tops in EVER. That is not a good look on me so what difference does it make? I haven't made jeans yet however but these don't look as scary AND the best part is they are just the style I wear all the time! My RTW are okay but I still have to wear an elastic belt to get them to sit where they should be all the time. Like you I'm ALWAYS pulling up my pants GRRRRH....that is until I discovered the beauty of elastic belts! Love them. But with these pants and a great fit I wouldn't even need a belt so I'm in. I've bookmarked your blog for future help when I get around to make them :)
ReplyDeleteI wore both my pairs over a long weekend trip and they were great! I hope you enjoy the pattern too. Feel free to drop into the Itch-To-Stitch Facebook group as well to chat about all things ITS, to brag or to ask questions. There's lots of us in there who are able to help!
DeleteWhat have you made beautiful jeans: perfect top stitching and well designed back pockets.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Sonja!
DeleteBased on your critique I ordered the pattern. It arrived yesterday. One comment - it has a front rise and a back rise - both different. I've always just had one 'rise' figure. Why is this - I'm guessing I don't do anything any different - just treat each one individually?
ReplyDeleteMarcia
On the Mountain View, the rise is 2 measurements: from the crotch point up to your waist in the front, and then from the crotch point around your rear to the back waistband (which includes the yoke). Don't think I've seen a pattern with only one rise measurement before. Seems like it would be very difficult to decide if/where you need adjustments.
DeleteThanks - your comment is interesting. Most books, craftsy classes, etc. - one rise - period. But I do think the 2 points is good. I'm 'mature' having sewn for 65+years and my front crotch length/rise is shrinking! Thanks for the prompt reply - and the great review on the pants
ReplyDeleteMarcia
Love your pants. I really need to get over my fear and make a pair too. But it is hard to find stretch demin that will work and is affordable. Your $4/yard was a sweet deal!
ReplyDeleteI love pull-on pants - since the time I found these in RTW I've worn nothing else. To be honest, nobody has ever seen I'm almost certain. I don't take care of tops ever. That is certainly not a decent look on me so why does it matter? Cocktail Dresses for Older Women
ReplyDeleteThe place to find unbiased reviews of the best sewing machines everyone is buying.
ReplyDeleteSewing Crafter
58-AM-768x449.png 768w, https://www.laweekly. Plus, you can use the liquid crystal thermometers to continuously regulate the temp. When it comes time for the sample to be collected at your test, you can simply turn the heating device off and hand it in. The medical-grade IV bag comes with a flexible tube that's able to stretch out the bag. Visit: https://www.urineworld.com/
ReplyDeletewow, looks amazing. What kind of sewing machine & sewing foot you used for it?
ReplyDeleteAmazing ....!! Collection for crops tops for women
ReplyDeleteWhat a wonderful invitation to get back to seasonal sewing! It’s a perfect reminder to embrace creativity as the seasons change. chuys coupon
ReplyDeleteGreat clothes.
ReplyDelete