My friend, Kennis, has been keeping me SO BUSY with fall sewing!
Ok. So I totally over-booked myself last week. My blog for the Sew Long Summer Tour was due to go live, but was unwritten, and I hadn't even taken photos or hemmed my dress. Then, two Itch-To-Stitch pattern tests were posted...to happen concurrently. Of course, I signed up for both.
I adore wrap tops, but the only ones I own are RTW. I knew I had to sew Brasov the minute I saw it. This pattern covers the full size range of 00-20, has the standard ITS PDF Layers Feature, is available in a print shop format, if you prefer not to build tiles yourself, and has lengthen/shorten lines to customize your fit. I've also found that the pleat detail provides plenty of space in the bust for those of us on the larger side of the Bust Cup Scale.
- Modest front crossover
-Shoulder and side pleats for soft feminine drape
- Curved petal-like hem
-High back neck for winter warmth
By the time I finished up the blog post and the first test sample, I had 2 days left to review, sew, photograph and submit a Brasov sample. Kennis assured me that it was an easy sew and I'd breeze through it, but I had doubts.
I've really been floundering with picking the right size lately. I'm measuring right between an ITS 8 & 10 this fall, and it seems I keep picking the wrong direction for my sizing. I started with a 10 for Brasov; my reasoning being that I didn't want a slim fitted shirt to cling.
Turns out, my Midnight Muslin of size 10 was just too big.
As I thought about having to print out another (smaller) copy of the pattern to start over on Monday morning, I felt the little amount of testing time left slipping away. Final Photos were due Tuesday, true, but come Monday all my work/family obligations would return and my sewing time would be severely limited.
Even though it wasn't the right size, I was able to use the 10 to analyze the fit and determine what adjustments I wanted to apply to the smaller size.
- I decided the sleeve length was perfect. (Note that I usually have to shorten, and so during the test, Kennis decided to lengthen the sleeve on the final version.)
- I chose NOT to attempt a forward shoulder adjustment and mess with the shoulder pleats. There is enough weight from the fabric draping in front to position my shoulder seams in a good place. Plus, with the way the back neck is constructed, the shoulders should sit a little further back.
- I chose not to shorten the overall length of the top at all.
- I removed 3/4 inch from the center back to reduce the extra fabric there.
I'm not going to lie. I felt a little anxious facing all those pleat markings at 7am on Monday morning.
I used a raspberry colored poly crushed panne velvet for my Brasov. It's got pretty good recovery, no vertical and about 75% horizontal stretch. It does like to curl a touch on the edges, but nothing that caused me too much trouble.
I tackled the pleats all at once to get them out of the way. I used snips in the seam allowance to mark the start of the legs, and the pattern instructions tell you how long you should stitch for each the shoulder and sides. They are slightly different, so make sure you read. I used a pin and a thermal ink pen to mark the bottom corner where I needed to stop stitching. I followed the 5/8 mark on my machine for the shoulder pleat width and 1/2 inch for the sides.
I managed to get all the way through neck construction before having to stop and go to work.
On Brasov, the front edges of the neckline wrap up and around to connect at the back of your neck. This creates a lovely shawl collar type effect that is really nice! It keeps your neck warm, feels cozy and helps your front wrap stay up in place.
It's a little tough to see with the texture of my fabric, but I completed the neck and shoulder seams all in one swoop. It gives the prettiest curving line.
If you've made an Irena or an Arenal before, the clipping and stitching of the neck/shoulder corner will make perfect sense. If you haven't made those (um why not?) don't worry, the instructions and illustrations for Brasov will hold your hand.
The neck is neatly finished with a bit of stitch in the ditch from the top side.
During my lunch break, I added sleeves and closed up the side seams....I went back to work feeling giddy that all I had to do was hem and secure the inside of the back neck.
BTW, my overlocker is still being a real ASSHOLE, even after being serviced.
Knowing it would randomly chew up the seam allowance, I constructed this entire top on my regular machine using a zig zag stitch. I only used my overlocker to neaten the insides.
After work, I was faced with hemming. I chose to zig zag it to save time. Naturally, my tension was jacked and I ended up having to rip it all out and do it twice.
My internet was being serviced on Tuesday, but I primped and set out to take photos anyway. Murphy's Law: The guy showed up when I was prancing around in a sparkly mini skirt and velvet top... I felt a bit awkward. Also, I couldn't find my stupid tights, so no boots and tights shots this time.
The important thing is that I MET THE DEADLINE!
You Need Brasov This Fall
Seriously, this top is flattering on all shapes and sizes of women. You can see other tester versions HERE in the pattern launch post.
You can pick up a copy of Brasov Wrap Top today for $8.00 (20% off)!
The sale ends September 23 2017, so don't wait.
Always valid, no code needed:
Spend $20+ and receive 15% off your entire cart.
Spend $30+ and receive 20% off your entire cart.
|Wait, what? You want to know what to grab for your bundle discount?|
My Brasov is paired in this post with the recent release North Point Trousers as well as a modified version of Vientiane Skirt (I used the lining to make a mini and added the side seam pockets).