What A MAROON...My Salamanca Jacket

Lining, that is!

That really doesn't make much sense, but it's been stuck in my brain the whole time I've been working on my Salamanca Jacket. The pattern is a pretty new release from Itch-To-Stitch. I knew right from the testing call that I would NEED to make this jacket (probably a couple times), so the Sew Along being run via the company's Facebook group the last few weeks was a good excuse to dive right in.

Based on the feed back of the pattern testers, and my experience with Itch-To-Stitch patterns, I decided to skip the fitting muslin and start with a wearable version. From my stash, I selected this faded dirty grey raw silk suiting. It's shot through with pink and rust, is full of slubs and flaws and lacks the sheen so loved in finely finished silk. It's one of those fabrics that sat in my stash because I didn't care for it the second I opened the delivery box. As it turns out, even an unloved fabric can become something great when combined with the right pattern and accents. For a lining, I chose a mid-weight maroon linen from my local Joann's store. I had about 0.75 yards of it left over from an old project, but it wasn't enough. Fortunately, it's a staple fabric and I was able to grab a little more to finish the jacket.

This jacket has 6 button holes. After my last attempt at machine stitched button holes, I decided to just make bound holes this time. I've never actually done them before. I've made faux bound button holes, where I did all the little welts, but never made the windows at the back, so they aren't functional. I went all the way this time. It really wasn't hard, It just took a great deal of time. Like a whole Saturday to do the welts and window prep, then a few more hours at the end of the project to hand stitch the windows to the back of the welts. I think it's worth it. They look really good!

With button holes out of the way, The construction of the body came together really fast.

I have this thing about long sleeves: I don't really like them unless I'm trying to snuggle up and stay warm. Bracelet length, 3/4 or none at all are my favorite, so I decided to chop off a bunch of the sleeve and make a roll up cuff with my lining fabric. I took 7 inches off the sleeve. Yeah. 7. The first 2 were just a general shortening of the sleeve using the S&L line on the pattern. The other 5 came off the bottom. I cut both the lining and shell sleeve to the same length, and then created a separate cuff piece. It is the same width as the new sleeve edge by 8 inches. Enough to roll up without a bunch of excess fabric.

I constructed the sleeves just as the pattern instructions directs so as to obtain the same fully enclosed seam finish. I simply connected the ends together with my cuff tube instead of to each other.

Once it was all stitched, I pressed the seams back toward the sleeves, turned it all right side out and then stiched in the ditch between the cuff and sleeves to hold everything in it's proper place. The result is exactly what I wanted.

It's not until near the end, when you finally get to put the yoke onto the jacket that you really see how it comes together. It's also the first time in the whole sewing process that you can get the jacket on and assess the fit.

Overall, for making zero pattern adjustments, the fit straight out of the envelope is pretty fantastic! The jacket hits in a flattering spot in front and back, it's not too voluminous, so while it's a swing style jacket, I still feel slim. It is, however, a tad snug in the sleeves and across the back. I have yet to release my pleat tack, so that will help some, but I feel like I will size up next time. Just the same, it is 100% wearable as-is and the more finished it becomes, the more I love it.

I had intended to have pictures taken when I wore this out with my friend, but it just didn't work out. I think if I continue to hold this post until I get shots of me in my jacket, it might never get posted! So, here's Heidi wearing my jacket.

**As a side note, those cuffs were bugging me and felt wrong. I tucked them up inside the sleeve and was very happy with the cropped sleeve. The width of it didn't feel so small anymore and I wasn't constantly fussing to push them up.

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