Coat Cravings: The Opium Coat From Deer and Doe

I try to make a coat each winter, but this year I had a difficult time getting in the mood for a large, complicated project. The thought of muslins and fit adjustments was making me feel like I should maybe skip the project. 

But then 2 things happened: First, my home-base Facebook sewing group, Sew Alongs & Sewing Contests, announced that they were running a Coat Along from November 1st - December 15th. Second, I saw the email announcement of Deer and Doe's new coat pattern, Opium, and it was instant love! 

The Pattern

The Opium is a lined, raglan sleeve, swing-style coat with beautiful origami welt pockets. There are two closure options: center front snaps for a true swing silhouette or a tie belt for a wrap silhouette. Opium Coat is available as both a printed paper pattern, or a PDF download in French and English languages. The paper pattern only includes through size 46 (41 inch bust) where the PDF download includes through size 52 (45.5 inch bust). Also, the PDF has layers so I can print only the size(s) I need. This is one of the reasons why I favor PDF patterns over printed.

Prep Work & Materials

At the risk of shocking all of you... I did NOT make a muslin. 

I know, but I meant it when I said earlier that I just didn't feel like it. Still, I did not make that choice without some consideration: 

-I measured the back length and sleeve length of coats that fit the way I like and compared them to the Opium pattern. 

-In addition to my standard 1/2 inch forward shoulder adjustment, I've shortened the sleeves 1.5 inches and shortened the overall length of the coat 2 inches. Both of these adjustments are completely in-line with common changes I make. 

-This is a swing style coat, and not fitted at all. There is quite a lot of ease.

-Deer and Doe draft for an hourglass figure and are often well-suited for C&D cup busts.

For my fabric, I selected this textured French wool with lurex from my stash. The coat is lined with this bright rayon crepe except for the sleeves, where I used a cream colored silk twill from my stash.

My wool is from Elliott Berman Textiles. Because I purchased it in 2013, it is, unfortunately, no longer available. However, they always have a selection of very fine wool coating that is worth checking out if you are looking for elegance and quality.

The rayon crepe lining is from Fabric Mart Fabrics, and (at the time of this post) is still available HERE! This fabric is everything you expect from a rayon: prone to shrinking, beautifully vibrant, slinky as hell, cool to the touch, an absolute nightmare to pin and cut, soft soft SOFT! 

Cutting my lining just about did me in. I had to split it between several days to minimize the frustration levels. After struggling for far too long to cut my back lining piece, I decided it would be in my best interest to cut my sleeve linings from some silk twill I had in my stash. It slides much better, and who doesn't like the feel of silk on their bare arms?

I added a layer of lambswool to my lining, ensuring that my coat will be warm all through the Michigan winter. This stuff is pretty hard to source, but I located it at Bergen Tailor Supply. I ordered 4 yards, so that I could have some on hand for my next few projects. 

In retrospect, I probably should have quilted the lambswool to my lining as it's kind of.... fluffy. But I guess it serves to keep the wind from blowing up my sleeve too much.

Construction Notes

Deer and Doe rate Opium Coat as a 5/5 on their difficulty scale. In my opinion, I didn't think it was that hard. There are no button holes, zippers or fitted seams. Of course, I have sewn many coats and jackets, so I guess my opinion is probably a bit skewed. 

After some serious time cutting all the pieces, you jump right in with the origami welt pockets. 

 I worked slowly, and had them completed in an evening.

 I felt they were no more difficult than any other welt pocket, and the results are far more interesting than a plain ol' band. 

Now is probably a good time to fess up and admit that I did not use a recommended fabric for my Opium Coat. In fact, in their blog post about choosing fabrics for Opium, Deer and Doe specifically call out tweeds/boucle/loose woven fabrics as being fabrics to avoid. I read that after I had cut, naturally. But let's be honest. I would have used this fabric anyway. I probably should have interfaced the full pieces of my wool, but... 

I didn't.

 What I did do is use twill tape to stabilize my armholes instead of fusible seam tape. And I used fusible seam tape along all the stitch lines to provide some support. 

My Ugly Duckling

So, to summarize: I am sewing a coat which I have NOT muslined, have NOT tried on any similar styles and have chosen a NOT recommended fabric. I finished my shell and the tie and put it on for the very first time.....

... and despaired that I spent all this time and money to make a frumpy, ratty-looking robe.

This fit session was followed by some serious Googling with the terms "robe coat" and "fuzzy coat". Imagine my surprise to find that Robe Coats and Teddy Coats are a THING, and my Ugly Duckling might actually be on-trend. Ish. On trendish.

Finishing Details

Fortified by my Pinterest results, I forged ahead adding the collar and bagging the lining; the directions for both being really clear and easy to follow.

I often need to remind myself that it's important to reserve judgement of a project until the end. The final steps always bring everything together. 

As I worked through completing my Opium Coat, I located some green velvet gloves at a local retail shop. As I didn't care for the coordinating velvet scarf, I picked up some hunter green crushed panne velvet at Joann's to make my own.

Don't they coordinate so well? 

I decided on an infinity cowl scarf to fill the open neckline of my wrap coat. 

Final Thoughts

I'm not really sure what my initial vision for my Opium Coat was.. maybe a little more sleek and trench feeling, but in the end I have decided I love my Teddy Robe Coat!

  

 

 Opened or closed, with or without my coordinated accessories, my Opium Coat is a great addition to my Me Made Coat Collection. 

As I mentioned early on, my Facebook Sewing Group, Sew Alongs & Sewing Contests is running a #CoatAlong challenge through December 15th. If you have sewn a coat, or are currently finishing a coat between the dates of November 1, 2018 and December 15, 2018, you have got to come join us and submit your self-sewn coat for a chance at a great prize!

A winner will be randomly drawn from qualifying submissions December 16th, 2018 to receive a prize package of:

- 1 year subscription to Angelakane.com

-  PDF copy of Waffle Patterns 23+ pockets 

-1 pdf pattern from sewdiy.com

All the rules about contest qualifying can be found in our FB Group Announcements. But, if you join us and need some help, just tag me (Crystal Rice) and I'll be happy to help you get acclimated!