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I Totally Under Estimated The New Itch-To-Stitch Pattern: La Paz Jacket

La Paz Jacket has been highly anticipated by the members of the Itch-To-Stitch Facebook group since whispers of its design were heard several months ago. Let me tell you, it was worth the wait! This pattern is everything you have come to expect from Itch To Stitch: precise drafting, clear instructions, logical construction order and thoughtful details.




Why This Pattern Is Special

La Paz Jacket is a knit blazer pattern with a classic look and fit. While it's true that La Paz is unlined and doesn't call for traditional jacket tailoring, Do Not Be Mistaken: It is an Advanced Level pattern with plenty of details to challenge intermediate sewers and keep advanced seamstresses interested.


As with every Itch to Stich Pattern, you will find:

- Tile printing at home and large format for the print shop
- PDF layers, to print only the sizes you want or need.
- A, B, C, D and DD cup sizing.


Additional Design Details:

Two piece sleeve for shaped fit.
Cut-on vented and faced sleeve cuffs


Double welt pockets with flaps
Back Stay
Unlined with optional Hong Kong seam finish


My Experience Sewing La Paz

In one word: Intense!
You know any time Kennis is ready to test a pattern, I drop whatever I'm doing and jump in head-first. Did it matter that I was out of town for the muslin portion of the test? NOPE. Or that work's been really busy and eating into my sewing time? NOPE. Or that this is her first advanced pattern? NOPE. I charged in blindly and completely underestimated the amount of time it takes to craft all the parts of the pattern. I finished about 24 hours after the test deadline.

I envisioned a bright, flowered spring jacket and found absolutely no stable knit fabric anywhere locally, not even in solid colors! On a trip to the Detroit area, I browsed through Haberman Fabrics and found this fabulous digital print scuba.


I decided the edges of the print really didn't suit my vision, and so I spent a couple days fussy cutting each piece. It can be hard to tell on the finished jacket, but the print on each piece is a perfect mirror of its partner.



I also decided that if I were going to go through the trouble of matching the print so carefully, I had use the Hong Kong seam finish inside. It is an absolutely gorgeous and couture feeling seam treatment, but be warned: it will add so many hours of work to your jacket! Even still, it elevates the quality so much that I know all my future La Paz Jackets will have this bound seam feature. 

There are supplemental blog posts detailing the application of Hong Kong binding on the Itch-To-Stich blog HERE and HERE.


I chose a teal binding to keep it interesting on the inside. I also spent a great deal of time considering white, black or self fabric details. In the end I chose to use a black cotton sateen for all the facings, pockets, welts, collar and back stay. Each of those pieces is also Hong Kong finished with black cotton sateen, or in the case of the pockets, teal cotton. You need a crazy amount of bias strips for these seams. I recommend going with a slightly wider 1.25 inch strip, rather than the standard 1 inch. You'll have to trim off the back, but it's much easier to wrap, especially seams with a little bulk, like the armholes. 

The easiest way to make bias tape is with this tutorial HERE.

As is becoming common with me, I swapped out standard button holes for my favorite: Spanish Snap Buttonholes. There are a total of four buttons. One on each cuff and two in the front.



This is going to sound crazy, but...the welt pockets were easy! You might think it's because I've gotten comfortable with the process, and maybe that's a little bit true, but like all the other parts of this pattern, the creation of double welt pockets with a flap is broken down into clear and managable steps. Just follow along and BAM, beautiful pockets. But, if you aren't so familiar with them, there's also a full color photo tutorial HERE.


And, if can share with you a cool little secret about this double welt flap pockets...Some days you feel like a flap, some days you don't! You can convert your flap pocket into a slim double welt just by tucking in. It's like two pocket styles in one!


The last "big" spot for me with this pattern was the notched collar. I've never ever made one. So, I woke up Sunday morning (yesterday) and said, "Today is Collar Day". I'd put it off as long as I could...there was nothing left I could do until I created my collar. It was quiet in the test group, as everyone had already finished, but I followed the directions, I got answers to my posted questions and really, turns out I'd been worried for nothing! 




I learned a cool little trick too...about sewing the collar notch seam slightly curved out so that when you turn it, it stays nice and straight. These are the tidbits I gather from Kennis and the experienced test sewers...I always learn something new!


Although, I might recommend not choosing black fabric and thread for your very first collar. It's impossible to see where exactly you need to stop and start... and when you miss the mark, you get a jacked up corner that you will not want to go in and unpick for a second try. 

I might have corner bunching, but look at how that curved seam is now straight!

Instead, you press and press and tug and press until it looks like no one except another sewer will even notice that it has a weird crease. Go back and look at my very first picture if you don't believe me.

Finished Photos

I think I've talked quite enough, and it's time to show some final shots!






 Is La Paz Jacket For You?

Yes! It really, really is! I rolled in late and unprepared and still came away with an amazing jacket with 10 days of focused sewing. If you are an advanced sewer, that's probably nothing! But if you are like me, pretty comfortable with with the basics, you can make this! 

-Gather your supplies.
-USE A WALKING FOOT.
-Tidy up your work space so you don't loose your supplies.
-Make all your binding strips at once.
-DON'T try to finish in 10 days. 
-Make sure you have enough of the right color thread.
-Take your time, enjoy the crafting of each part.
-Join the Itch-To-Stitch Facebook group for support or for bragging.
(We are all super nice and want to see what you are sewing!)


Get your copy HERE! It's on sale right now (through April 16, 2017) for just $12.
Make sure you check out the Release Announcement Post HERE to see all the tester versions of La Paz!

Comments

  1. Phew! And in Scuba no less.... you pushed yourself! Congrats!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This was my first scuba sewing experience. It really wasn't bad!

      Delete
  2. What an endeavor! Great job, the pattern matching adds such a stunning touch.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thank you, Kyema! I feel print matching when possible is really important. And it was much easier than a plaid would have been! LOL!!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Beautiful jacket, Crystal. Your attention to detail is a credit to you. Well done!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Kathy! It was a good project to stretch my sewing skills.

      Delete

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