I've been a naughty Coat Cravings host. Jumping out of the gate all raring to go....then totally stalling out for 2 months. Don't worry, I did pick my Fari Coat back up again...I even finished it! Here, let me share the highlights of my Coat making with you:
I do believe when I last left you, I was just about to start my welt pockets.
I added a nice healthy square of interfacing to the back side to support the stitches and opening.
Then, I very carefully hand basted the prepped pocket pieces to my opening.
I was more than a little paranoid about things being very precise, this seemed the best way to ensure nothing shifted while stitching.
It made machine stitching a breeze, as I could see the stitch lines very clearly, and just needed to follow the basting stitches.
No matter how confident I am in my stitching, slicing into the pocket opening is always gut-wrenching...
Will I have ruined my coat?
No, Not at all, they came out perfect!
I took my time and did the cutting when I was all alone with Netflix one evening. Overlocking the lining parts together took no time at all.
Trims And Holes
The trim was applied to both the lining and the outside of the coat in the same way: Like a v-neck. I stitched on each of the 8 corners first, then went back and eased the banding in along the straight edges. Truthfully, everything fit perfectly, and so after the fuss of the corners, it was just a matter of stitching some straight lines.
To remind myself how crazy-simple Spanish Snap Buttonholes are, I did a quick test. But, I had some real trouble sewing the actual holes on the jacket. The seam allowances are so close to the button hole placement that the fabric wanted to shift every time the needle went up. I ripped the first one out 3 times before I decided to stitch it upside down from the interfacing side. SO much easier to see the thread.
It's a pretty tight fit for the button, but it will be fine. I made the facing slightly larger so that it will be easier to slip stitch the layers together at the end.
Putting It All Together
Stitching the sleeve of your lining to the wrong sleeve of your coat is not a great way to get started.
So I ripped them out and started over.
The sleeves went in on the correct side the second time...but having never bagged a lining before...and with the pattern instructions providing no direction on how to do it, I messed it up the second time as well.
It was a rough day. But I got through it and pressed open the seams all around the perimeter of my coat. Wooden point presser and my clapper were invaluable for this part!
The first time I went through grading and clipping seams wasn't good enough. There is an incredible amount of bulk in there, and I needed to go back through a second time and be far more aggressive.
The wine helped me worry less about clipping TOO closely.
It's hard to tell from a camera shot, but the button hole feels really thick. It wasn't until too late that I realized I'd made a big mistake. Instead of using interfacing on the facing side of the button hole, I used a piece of wool. It's a shame because even with hammering and lots of steam it will still be too thick. Thank goodness I selected buttons with a shank. A flat button would never have worked.
Since I couldn't go in and fix the facing, I trimmed it as small as I dared and catch stitched the edges in place to keep it from distorting or flipping out. I'm sure that over time, it will be less of a bother to me.
It is necessary to "stitch in the ditch" around the entire perimeter of the coat to seal the outside and inside trims together. Otherwise, it won't lay flat together and looks very unattractive. I didn't trust that my seams would match up on both sides, so I chose to hand tack. I know, I know, but it gave me so much control and is invisible. It also took FOREVER. It was worth it though, truly.
The last thing I needed to do was stitch on the buttons. I chose black enameled shank buttons with 24K gold edging. I used 3/4 inch buttons for the sleeve tabs and a 7/8 inch button for the collar.
They have a really nice weight to them without being heavy. I also think they look sleek and classic without being boring.
The day I went out and took these shots, the snow was deep. The light was gloomy and overcast, the temperature was -13F and my ears hurt before I could get very many shots. Here's Is my finished Fari Coat! I'm incredibly proud of this finish and have been wearing it around town at every opportunity.
Coat Cravings Challenge ended on December 15, 2016. You can check out our winner's coats HERE. (That's right, she made two!)
Our next Sew Seasonal Wardrobe contest will begin on January 1st. Watch this space, and our Group's Facebook Page, Sew Alongs & Sewing Contests, for the details. I hope you'll join us and Sew Along!
Have you missed one of the Coat Cravings posts? Find all the links HERE.